Friday, June 29, 2018

June 22


We were all really excited for our first day in Jilong. Out our window we can see some huge statues up on one of the hillsides, and our plan was to go check them out. First though we made our way around a few morning markets with lots of fruit, vegetables, and fish. We had a fun time looking at the different foods that they were selling, and all of the vendors had a fun time looking at us as we walked through. 

We also stopped by a pretty cool temple that is right in the center of the Jilong night market. This temple had some pretty cool paintings on the walls and we took turns making up stories about each one. The friendly people there gave us some savory crackers to munch on as we walked around. 

Next was a Buddhist temple. This one had several huge statues of Buddha and other gods in it. It seemed like this one was perhaps the headquarters for a certain sect of Buddhism and there were several workers who wanted to help us while we were there. They ended up giving us a large box of these small crackers with different flavors of frosting on the inside and two packages of plum vinegar drink. The crackers were a huge hit, but the plum drink was pretty awful. I found that it was mainly the aftertaste, so I chugged it all down as quick as possible and then had one bad taste in my mouth at the end rather than a bad taste after every sip. We ended up giving the second package to a homeless guy on the street. 

After the Buddhist temple we started our trek to Zhongzheng Park. I remembered this park from when my parents came. What I remembered were the huge statues, visiting it at night, and lots of stairs. Well the stairs were just as huge this time visiting. We did have to carry our stroller with us going up them though. The first things we saw were three huge pagadoas called Zhupu altar. I am not sure if these pagodas have any religious purpose or if they are more of a cultural thing. In the middle one at the bottom they had a museum that talked all about the ghost festival, which is the major celebration in Jilong. We learned that the Jilong ghost festival is the largest in Taiwan and the festival started as a way to bring the people from the city together. In the 1600s when people started coming to Jilong from China, there were fractions in the people based on what city they were immigrating from. There ended up being a larger violent clash between them with many deaths. So the city officials decided that to fix this all of the people who died in the clash would be buried together instead of with their own separate clans. Also, the people would be grouped by surnames for different governmental activities rather than by the location where they came from. The surname groups would then compete with each other through different folklore performances during the ghost festival. That way individuals from the different clans would now be working together in order to win these friendly competitions. 

Right as we finished exploring the pagodas it started to rain. It was just a sprinkle at first, but then it started to downpour. We found a small Chinese gazebo to rest under to see if we could wait it out. It kept going for a while though, so we made our way to the rest of the statues in the park. One of the biggest was a goddess that we could go inside. We walked up five flights of stairs in her and there were small windows we could look out at each level. When we got back outside we saw that the windows only went about 2/3 of the way up, which means the statue was about 8 stories tall. It had a couple giant lion statues standing guard by it. We didn’t stay too long though because the rain was coming down pretty heavily. 

So, we made our way in the rain to a museum that had focused on the history of Jilong. It was a pretty small museum with very little English. So although it was nice to get out of the rain, there wasn’t much in it to occupy us for long. 

The rest of the day we spent walking through the shopping area of town a bit and then drying out at our apartment. After about an hour at our apartment the rain had stopped, and so we went out to the Jilong night market. The Jilong night market is supposed to be one of the best in Taiwan, with a focus on fresh fish. It was fun to walk around and it had many interesting vendors. We did see some live giant frogs in one dish. They were so huge and there were 10 or so packed into one small tank, so we thought that they were fake. But after staring at them more we saw that they were real. I want to try frog again on this trip, so I asked for a menu, but the frog dish seemed pretty expensive. Maybe another day at another shop though. Rebecca ended up getting a crab soup and I got more tian bu la and shaved ice. The kids ate some of our dishes as well as some onion pancakes and then potstickers back at the apartment.




This morning market was held under the freeway. This market has a lot of fruits and vegetable stands, but also a ton of fresh fish and meat.


The first temple that we visited today. The night market is surrounding the temple, so we went back to it again at the end of the day.










These paintings on the temple walls were amazing.




I really love the roofs of these temples.








It is hard to see, but the mountain side has huge letters spelling out Keelung on it, kind of like the Hollywood sign.


Eating some yummy nectarines at the start of the day.




Some of the giant statues at the Buddhist temple.


The stairs!


At the pagodas.






A small section of the city right up next to the harbor.


Trying to wait out the rain.




At the zhongzheng park.




Inside the large statue.








Inside the museum.


At the night market.



June 21


Time for the next stage of our trip – back of North to the Taipei area. We have just over one month left and will spend 10 days in Jilong (which is just right out of Taipei on the north east coast) and then three weeks in Taipei. The train ride from Tainan to Jilong was 5 hours long. With this train ride we had traveled the complete circumference of the island. We had lots of beautiful mountain and city views on the ride. In addition to enjoying the view, Rebecca and I spent our time trying to keep Asher occupied and in a seat for the entire time. I don’t think he ended up napping at all during the whole ride. The other children, spent most of their time playing games on their tablets. We got into Jilong at around 6pm. It was raining out, but luckily the place we were staying was only a third of a mile away. After getting checked in, I ran out to get beef noodle soup, onion pancakes, and fried pot stickers for everyone. Our apartment in Jilong is somewhat similar to the other ones we have stayed in, but it is probably the largest of all of them. Still only one bedroom, kitchen, and bathroom, but it has a bigger living room. It is a little more run down the others and we have been having a fruit fly problem, but it has a great view of the city and harbor – we are on the 11th floor.


At the Tainan train station.


Eating some bakery snacks on the train.


Asher enjoying the ride.

June 20


This was our last full day in Tainan and it was another rainy day! Our plan for the day was to visit a few more temples and monuments. The first temple was pretty similar to the ones we had seen before, except they had a really huge gate. The gate itself seemed to be just as big as the temple, but I accidentally deleted my picture of it. 

The second temple was a Buddhist temple that we read about in our guidebook. When we got there it looked like it was possibly abandoned. That didn’t stop us from walking around it some. It was a whole complex of temples and gardens with huge statues throughout. We did see one monk there at one point and heard the chanting playing on the radio, but other than that we were all on our own. I made up a story about the ten monks who died there as the reason why no one is there any more. We had a fun time exploring around the haunted temple complex trying to spook each other out. 

Then we went to the shrine for Koxinga, the general from China who took Taiwan back from the Dutch. There was a museum there and some pretty extensive gardens that were fun to explore around in. 

Then, right across the street from that was the temple for Lady Linshui. She was born in the 700s in China. Legends say that while she was alive she had clairvoyant abilities and was an exorcist. Throughout her life she had different battles with a particular magical snake. When she was 24 she became pregnant and the snake snuck into her womb and ate her unborn child. She then went to battle the snake for the last time. She managed to kill it, but died immediately after from exhaustion. Years later the people deified her as the god for mothers and unborn children. Pregnant women in particular go to her to have protection for their child during the pregnancy and delivery. She now has 36 helper goddesses (3 for each month) to help her in her task of taking care of unborn children. 

After that we just walked around town a bit more looking at different neat buildings and activities that were going on. We ended the day with some curry and a couple bowls of shaved ice.



At the first temple.






The second temple - this was the deserted Buddhist one.






These giant statues were also standing on top of people. It reminds me of the columns in the bank of evil in Despicable Me or the statue in the Ministry of Magic in Harry Potter in the 7th movie.






This was a Catholic church that we walked by. It was cool to see the church with the integration of Chinese style architecture.


Inside the Catholic church.


At the Koxinga shrine.






















The Lady Linshui temple.






Here is a 3D painting of her fighting off demons.


Her 36 helper goddesses.














We watched this play along the side of the street for a little bit.


This was the gardens of a man who wanted to make a Japanese style garden. I don't know if it actually is Japanese style at all, but it was a pretty cool peaceful place in the middle of the big city.


He built this really long cave. Unfortunately they said it is no longer save and we could not go in it.


We stopped for some shaved ice. The one on the right is just passion fruit. The one on the left has chocolate, sweetened condensed milk, and a flan pudding on top.


All around they have these little game stores. This one had a robot that the children all wanted to get their picture in.